The fact is that your recordings are only as good as the signal chain you use to make those recordings and there’s no element more important in your signal chain when recording an acoustic source such as an acoustic guitar or vocals than your microphone. This article is about a microphone that will certainly not be the weak link in your chain and which is not too pricey (although it is certainly not cheap by most people’s standards.)
The KSM44 is the mic that I’m writing about. I write about this condenser microphone from my own personal experience with it as it has been the principle mic in my home studio for about seven years and I have used it (and continue to use it) to record just about anything you can think of.
The KSM44 Condenser Microphone is a “multi-pattern” mic. What does that mean? There are 3 directional patterns that mics can record in (and the KSM44 can be switched between all three.) The directional patterns are cardioid, figure-8, and omnidirectional.
Cardioid means that the mic only records what is coming from the front while rejecting all of the sound coming from the back and most of the sound coming from the sides. A figure-8 pattern records sound from both the front and the back while rejecting everything coming in the sides. An omni pattern picks up everything from all around the mic. All of these recording patterns can be useful in different situations and this is why it is so great that this microphone can be used with any of these patterns.
Many microphones favor certain frequencies in order to “color” the sound in some way. While this can be great in some situations, having a microphone that has a neutral response will allow quite a lot more versatility. The KSM44 Condenser Mic is known for it’s neutral response and this is one of the big reasons why it’s such a flexible microphone. The KSM44 can be used to record any acoustic source.
Like every other condenser, this microphone needs a mic preamp. The quality of the preamp can significantly effect the quality of the sound you get so in a good quality mic preamp should probably be your next purchase after buying a quality condenser microphone.
Bonsai Basal Care
Watering is axiological to all bulb life.Without baptize a timberline will die, in a cartilage dry bonsai alembic a timberline will die of appetite as little as 48 hours.That is breadth best new comers accomplish their aboriginal mistake, added bonsai are dead through agitation over watering than any added causes combined.
When to Water
The aboriginal and alone aphorism to apprentice is this: Baptize thoroughly but alone back a bonsai needs it.
The absolute catechism is, how can you tell? The simple acknowledgment is advantageous roots colonise the absolute pot afar from a attenuate apparent band in some cases.Which agency that the clay dries adequately analogously throughout the pot.
Scratch analysis Scratch the dry apparent to betrayal the clay anon below, if the clay aloof beneath the apparent is acutely wet, your bonsai timberline do not charge watering yet.If it is clammy you can water, if it is dry you charge water.
After a few weeks you should be able to adjudicator reasonable accurately aloof by attractive at the apparent of the soil.Besides to abundant abrading abroad at the apparent of the clay will bunched the roots, so if you are still borderline of your acumen try the
Stick analysis Insert a board stick into the clay in one bend of the pot, advance it ridght to the attic of the pot and leave it there.Withdraw it every day and feel the end.This will acquaint you how clammy the clay is at all levels.
By far the best way to baptize your Bonsai timberline is from above, application a accomplished rose on a watering can.Using accustomed tap baptize is accomplished in best cases unless you are growing a adhesive antisocial breed such as azaleas which needs an acerbic soil.If you alive in a adamantine baptize breadth they will charge approved applications of a clay acidifier such as Miracid.
Nutrition
Bonsai clay is abundantly apathetic absolute little if annihilation of comestible amount to a bonsai tree.What nutrients may abide there are anon done abroad with circadian watering.This agency your bonsai is absolutely abased on you for its comestible requirements.
Which to Use? There is a amazing arrangement of bulb foods accessible all of them claiming to be the best for one affair or another.Yet in accuracy the basal capacity are all abundant the aforementioned although the accommodation may vary.The accommodation of the three basal nutrients Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (p) and Potassium (K) are added important than the cast name or blazon of fertilizers.
Somewhere on the backpack of every fertilizer will be the brand NPK followed by three numbers.This indicates the about accommodation of the three basal nutrients.EG.NPK 15-15-15 indicates a counterbalanced augment of average strength.
Nitrogen (N) is amenable for blade and axis growth, with too little nitrogen the leaves become anemic and the stems are attenuate and anemic and both become affected to fungal disease.
Phosphorus (P) takes affliction of the basis development and additionally helps the ripening of the fruit, the closing is abnormally important in the case of bonsai which accept berries.
Potassium (K) (potash) plays a acclimation act with the nitrogen.It hardens off the adolescent advance and protects it adjoin fungal advance and algid damage. Too little potash can aftereffect in blotchy follage, afire of the blade margins and abortive autumn blade fall.
What NPK? The admeasurement of nutrients to use will depend on the time of year.In bounce a anniversary counterbalanced is all your bonsai timberline will need.EG. 5-5-5.Then as the shoots activate to extend the bonsai tree’s comestible requirements will access EG. 15-15-15 or there abouts.Towards the end of summer and through aboriginal autumn a nitrogen chargeless fertilizer EG.0-10-10 helps to amalgamate off the buds and roots in address for winter.The one barring to this aphorism is the ache family.Pines charge low nitrogen diet in bounce and aboriginal summer, followed by a aerial nitrogen diet in backward summer in adjustment to body buds for abutting year.
Light and Air
Daylight or acceptable bogus ablaze is capital for bulb survival.It is important to accept the aberration amid sunlight and sunshine.Direct sunlight can be to acrid for abounding breed of bonsai abnormally through the bottle window of a active room.All bonsai copse whether calm or alfresco will account from some amount of bespeckle concealment from the hot summer sun.
If you accumulate calm bonsai you should abode them abreast abundant to a ample window so they accept acceptable light, but not breadth the sun will flash on them directly.In the case of alfresco bonsai maple, beech and larch are the affliction accomplished by able sun they will charge semi black area. Bonsai. At the added end of the spectrum pines will be blessed abundant to broil abroad all day continued in abounding sunshine.
Ventilation Accomplish abiding there is an air change in your allowance every hour if all-important a baby fan would be useful. Foto Bonsai. Stagnant air breeds bane and added awful fungal problems, abolition the bonsai tree’s accustomed breath accent and about makes the bonsai attending dowdy.
I love my digital camera. I remember back to the days of the old film-using cameras – I remember rushing to the print shop to get my newly developed photos and hoping upon hope that they would – at least mostly – have turned out well. I remember paying for my newly developed photos only to find that someone’s eyes were closed in one photo, or someone was moving at the time another was taken and the end result was blurry.
Though I wouldn’t trade my modern digital camera for anything in the world, one thing I realize is that when I used film, I was much more sparing and careful about the photos that I took. I paid to have them developed, so I lovingly put them into photo albums upon having them developed.
Now that I take digital photos, I suddenly have hundred, if not thousands, of photos “cluttering up” my computer and taking up valuable space. I rarely develop my photos anymore, I just tend to take photo after photo, upload it to my computer, and then forget about it!
Well, no more! I have something far more interesting to do with my digital photos now; I have begun to use digital scrapbooking software! Digital scrapbooking software allows me to create incredible photo albums and scrapbooks with a few click of the mouse!
With digital scrapbooking software, scrapbooking is a breeze. It is just as much fun as traditional scrapbooking used to be, but I find it so much more appealing because of the relatively low cost and wide variety of options!
Using digital scrapbooking download is a cinch. First, you organize your photos by deciding which photos you will present in your digital album or scrapbook. Next, use your digital scrapbooking software to upload your chosen photos. You can create categories, or folders, to keep your photos organized for each scrapbooking project. And then the fun really begins….
You will find oodles of creative, unique clip art and backgrounds in your digital scrapbooking software for you to choose from and play with!
But what if you want to use older photos that have been printed traditionally on photo paper? No problem! Simply use your scanner to scan and upload the photos on to your home computer! It’s simple! Digital scrapbooking software allows you to use any type of photo to make a gorgeous and creative scrapbook!
How do you choose the digital scrapbooking software that’s right for you? Here it pays to do your research. If you want to find the photo scrapbook software that will allow you to make the highest possible quality scrapbook, then look for the following things on the website offering or promoting the software:
- Professionalism: does the site appear to have been created by a professional web designer? Generally speaking, if the site looks good and like it’s had some money put into it, then it’s more likely a legitimate business that it promoting a legitimate product.
- A Contact Page: does the website promoting the digital scrapbooking software have a method by which you can contact the sellers? You always have to be cautious about what you download off of the internet; do your homework and make sure you know who you are getting your software from!
- “Extras”: there are a lot of digital scrapbooking software products out there. Does this website offer a product that comes with ‘extras’ – features like add-ons, fancy backgrounds, and a variety of clip-art that sets their product apart from the competition’s?
And most importantly, digital scrapbooking software should be FREE. That’s right: FREE. How do the companies promoting them make their money, you ask? You get to use their amazing digital scrapbooking software for free to make a digital scrapbook or photo album, and then if you choose, you can pay them to professionally publish (print) it for you. It’s a great deal! You can play and create for free, and if you want to, you can publish it too!
Check out Avatree for an excellent example of free digital scrapbooking software that will provide you with endless entertainment as you pursue your creative scrapbooking hobby!
Poker is a very popular card game, where players with either fully or partially hidden cards bet into a central “pot.” To the player having the best card combination, the accumulated bet in the pot is then handed over.
Before the dealing of the cards, one or more players, depending on the rule, is required to place an initial bet unto the pot. After which, the cards are dealt, face down. Thus the beginning of the game.
Strategy should be developed so that one will learn who plays fair or who the sharper player is. By defining them, one can easily deal with them. Carefully study each players move so you will prevent loss in your cards.
Poker is a game of strategy. Even with bad set of cards, a good poker player still has a high chance of winning. Here are some tips:
*Hand strength. Any hand that is less than a pair should be folded at the earliest opportunity that comes. Don’t wait that other cards will remedy the situation, because they will not.
*Display a poker face. This makes the other players wary of your cards. Your expression will let your opponents know how good or how bad are your cards. A point to remember, never project any clue to them, if you will, then make certain that if you do have bad cards, pretend you have otherwise.
Do bear in mind that bluffing will not work if you are a poor player. Meaning players who over estimate the force of their hand. Also, if a player bluffs repeatedly or regularly, expert players will eventually sense their style and would now know if they are bluffing or not.
*Never be afraid to fold. One threatening aspect in poker is placing your bet. As to how much or how little one should bet, feel the game. As you go along, you will then be knowledgeable and know when to bet and when to fold. A rule to keep in mind is, don’t expect later cards will improve your situation if you have nothing in your hand. Be free to fold as frequently as needed.
*Control. Bet wisely. This means betting with your head. Bet only within your means. You can not gain fortunes in poker, so stay within your limits.
*No alcohol. As alcohol makes one bolder and daring, it is wise to avoid it at poker time. You might find yourself betting more in not so good cards. Avoid alcohol especially when the stakes are high.
It is important for one to devote a lot of time for the development of your own strategy. The more you play the game, the longer that you are exposed to it, you could then have your own secrets to winning the game.
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With the advent of technological advancements, people can find ways on how to do things differently. The problem is that some of these things do more harm than good.
One of the greatest problems brought about by technology these days are the scams. This is because with high-tech gadgets, most scammers can easily identify the information that they need so as to get hold of a person’s bank account, credit card, etc.
One great example of scams is those that are used in gambling. These fraudulent activities are so prevalent in gambling, especially online-gambling because a lot of people want to earn money. They are so hooked up with earning money that they tend to neglect areas that need careful analysis.
People who fall easily as prey are those who are vulnerable to ads that states about easy money, sure win, or higher chances of winning.
However, there are still ways to deal with these problems. The bottom line is to identify which gambling activity is fraudulent or not.
Here’s how:
1. People should learn to assess things whenever somebody is pushy about a certain thing. Chances are, if they are so pushy, they want to get what they want whatever the case may be. It’s like giving their victim a “now or never” ultimatum.
If a certain gambling activity claims it can’t wait until the next day, chances are, that activity is a scam.
2. Surveys show that when a certain gambling activity is offering lots of money in a short span of time for just a small fee, there is a higher probability that it is a scam.
The bottom line is that, if it looks and sounds too good to be true, chances are it is a scam.
3. If certain rules and regulations are too vague to be understood, chances are it may be a scam. This is because scammers will usually not lay down all the facts. They have hidden agendas or costs that will reap more money once they get their victim on the hook.
4. A gambling deal that would offer something for nothing is definitely a scam. In most cases, people get something without giving in return…at first. What’s more, they even give people a money-back guarantee, which may sound so enticing but all the more it is just like that, an enticement.
So, for people who fall to these kinds of situations, it would be better to be wary next time around. As they say, a person will never know what a scam is unless he knows how to spot one.
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To make archery bow is not a difficult task if you have the prerequisite skills and sufficient knowledge about making a bow. Successful archery bow making also require proper material. It also depends on the type of bow that you want to make.
If you don’t have the material for making archery bows then you can always order the material online. There a number of websites that provides material to make archery bow. These websites will definitely satisfy your bow making archery bows.
A quality product ensures long lasting satisfaction. Hence it is necessary that you use quality material to make archery bow. A quality product is also a prideful accomplishment. You will also gain a lot of knowledge while making the bow. It is necessary that you have lots of enthusiasm in order to make archery bow. This enthusiasm will definitely deliver a better product.
Today’s modern recurve bows are made up of fiberglass and laminations of wood. The wood that serves as a spacer between 2 laminations is made up of fiberglass. This fiberglass carries 88 percent of load. When making archery bow, you should increase the space between 2 fiber glass laminations with the help of a thicker core.
This will enhance strength of your bow. If the thickness of the wood core is more than specified, then automatically the weight of your bow increases. Even a slight increase in the thickness of the wood core is going make a big change in the weight of your bow. Your bow may become too heavy.
A beginner attempting to make archery bow is going to tackle a difficult project. To make traditional archery bow it is necessary to select appropriate wood. There are a variety of woods suitable to make archery bow.
These include lemonwood, yew, orange and Osage. However maple is commonly used in making bows. Maple is a hard dense hard dense wood and straight grained wood. That is why it is used to make archery bow. It is readily available in market and has good quality grades. Hence it is preferred by many.
For beginners it is advised to use maple. Other woods will be tricky to handle because of twist grain patterns and knots. Beginners can always take the help of a bow kit that is available in the market. This bow kit will make things a bit easier.
It contains the material that is necessary to make a five feet six inch recover bow. It is necessary that you use finest quality material to make archery bow.
Before you start to make archery bow, you should have good knowledge about the anatomy of the bow and the various terms that you are going to use to denote its different parts. Without having this basic knowledge, making archery bow becomes a stressful job. You should also check that you have the necessary material with you.
You are also required to be thorough with the specifications before you start making the bow. So are you ready to make archery bow?
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There’s nothing quite as rewarding as doing a super job yourself. Particularly when it’s a repair that costs you less, you know you were able to do it on your own and you did it right. However, as great as that feels be sure you don’t get in over your head. So be sure to ask yourself these questions just to be sure that you will really want to do any car work before you get yourself overly involved and over your head.
1.Do “I” really want to do this project? Is it going to be a nightmare, or will it be fun? You probably don’t want to do something that doesn’t feel good unless it’s absolutely unavoidable.
2.Do you know how to do the job? If not, do you know where to go to find out about how to do it? Starting a car project and getting stuck in the middle is no fun and something you will likely want to avoid.
3.Do you have all of the tools you need to do the job? Often times, special repairs require special tools that can be more expensive to buy or rent than if you had just paid someone else to do the job to begin with.
If you make a mistake, is it easily repairable or is it something that would be seriously damaged as a result? You will likely want to avoid a project that if you can damage something beyond repair.
4.How long will the project take? If it’s going to take a long time, figure out how much you feel your time is worth and if you will really save money by doing the repair yourself.
With those points in mind you can truly determine whether you as a do it yourself’er should really get involved with the automotive project that you are considering. As a general rule, you don’t want to get yourself involved in more than you are comfortable with so be sure to be sincere with yourself well answering these questions.
Working on your own car is something that everyone can do. It doesn’t require specialized training, or a great amount of experience. In fact with any kind of service manual and a fairly basic tool set you can do 99% of most automotive repairs yourself without having to pay an expensive mechanic that you may or may not be able to trust. There’s no reason that in today’s economy you shouldn’t work on your own car with the hundreds of dollars that you can save even with just the first repair depending on what it is. Over the course of time, the amount of money that you will save doing your own oil changes and the like is astronomical. So with that being said, we hope that you have found this article to be informative and would encourage you to visit Braun electric shaver parts and Braun electric shaver to read our reports there as well.
Finding a dance class that is good for your child could be a frightening task. Occasionally you are feeling that you’re attempting to find the self-evident “needle in a haystack”.
However now there are a few places you can look to make it easier. Personal recommendation can frequently be better than reading all of the literature in the world. Taking the word of other adults who had the benefit of prior experience is a brilliant concept.
Suggestions are common in everyday life and it could be as straightforward as asking somebody at work or chatting to pals. Web : with the arrival of the Net looking out for a dance faculty has become far simpler.
You simply go to Google and type in “ballet Fairfax“. There are a big number of web sites that come up when you search for “dance school” on Google. There’ll be all types of different dance disciplines and a variety of different schools. You’ll be smart to have a look at the local ones that are nearest to you and also those offering smaller classes. Make an inventory of promising dance colleges, with their telephone numbers, and call for an appointment. There had been a point when yellow pages was the only real option when you wanted to get a product or service.
Many Northern Virginia ballet locations spend thousands of $ advertising in yellow pages because so many folk look there first. Yellow pages is now also available online so if you don’t have the book form, just get online and search through yellow pages that way. Another aspect of the web is the presence of forums and debate boards. The things are essentially there for folk to put up a question or subject and seek answers. Many of us frequent these sorts of sites but replies can take ages to come back. Naturally, if you’ve got a little time to evaluate your decision, why don’t you try a circular board or forum. There are a few sorts of dance and continually the right school can disappoint when you begin to understand that they are not teaching the kind of dance your child wants. So, when you’re going thru advertisements and differing types of information mediums, remember that vital question of the sorts of dance taught at the school. Teachers : when you try the dance faculties you can need to be conscious of the sort of instructors the school is hiring. It requires a special teacher to order little kids. They have to be patient and creative. Ballet lessons in Fairfax also have to be in a position to build a good relationship with their pupils.
Flying an electric RC airplane is like having beginners luck every time you fly. The first remote control airplane I ever got was electrically powered, I had no flying skills whatsoever, and I still managed to fly it perfectly without even crashing. Why you ask? Because electric RC planes like the one I had are so simple, they only have two control options, power and steering. You go as fast, or slow as you want and just choose your direction.
Now yes, there are electric RC planes that you can buy or build, that have many control channels and all the works, like flaps, ailerons, etc. Those types of electric airplanes are basically made for advanced flyers who don’t like the mess that comes with the use of fuel. Most hobbyist start with an electrically powered plane, then move onto fuel powered ones once they have mastered it. But like I said, some people just don’t like the mess and added expense that comes with a fuel powered engine, so they stick with electric motors. Fine, do whatever makes you happy, but I am just going to talk about getting a good electric RC plane for a beginner pilot.
Now first off you should note that electric airplanes can come in a few different types. Basically there are only park flyers, slow flyers, regular electric planes and advanced electrically powered RC airplanes.
Park flyers are mainly for parks and small areas similar to that outdoors. Slow flyers are just the opposite, since they move slower they are for indoors. These can be great for the winter or when it is just plain to windy outside to fly.
A regular electric RC airplane is the best for beginners and is exactly what I flew as my first RC airplane. Usually these planes are priced around $50 and they have just two controls, so it is ideal for beginners. This type of airplane is usually made of Styrofoam, and very little metal, so you need to be careful when flying it. Even if you do crash and damage something, usually a little duct tape will fix anything on it. I kid you not, I still have my first electric RC plane, which I broke the wing twice on, and it still fly’s!
An advanced electric RC airplane is ideal for advanced pilots who don’t like the mess of fuel, like I said before, but it is also great for areas where noise is a concern and you still want the full experience. Advanced electric R/C airplanes are more full bodied then regular ones, usually made of all plastic and balsa wood, plus they also have around 5 or 6 channels of control.
All in all, buy a park flyer if you just want a quick little flight every once in awhile, get a slow flyer if you want to fly indoors, purchase a regular electric RC plane if you want to get into the RC airplane hobby seriously, but are just a beginner. Last but not least, once you master an electric RC plane, move onto a more advanced nitro methane fuel powered one, or an advanced electrically powered plane. Read more other articles about popular hairstyles and round face hairstyles.
The year was 1915 and there was a movement afoot to change the remainder of American coinage. With the changes to the $10 eagle, $20 double eagle, the cent and nickel, it was now time for changes to the dime, quarter and half dollar. Under 1890 law, changes could not be made to a coin design without approval from congress more frequently than every 25 years. The Barber coinage (dime, quarter and half dollar) was to reach that mark in 1916 and the mint wasted no time in making the changes, in fact starting the process before 1916.
In 1915, US Mint Director Robert W. Woolley offered the opportunity to three noted sculptors, Adolph A Weinman, Albin Polasek and Herman A. MacNeil to prepare designs for three silver coins. Outside artists, not chief engraver Charles Barber, supplied designs for the previous six changes and Woolley felt this was a great option. By 1916, Barber was 75 years old but had a track record of being hostile to outside artists designing coins he thought he should be designing. With three new designs, all replacing coins Barber himself had designed, it could have gotten unpleasant. The records suggest Barber was on his best behavior. In this case it seems he just stepped aside and let his assistant George T. Morgan, who had designed the Morgan dollar, do all the work. Maybe Barber finally just gave up or was too old too fight anymore or just recognized the beauty in the designs. Barber died in February 1917 and was replaced by Morgan.
It is assumed that Woolley intended to award a different coin to each person. It may not have been planned this way, but Weinman ended up getting two of his designs as the winning designs. One being what would become known as the Walking Liberty Half and the Mercury Dime. MacNeil won the design for the quarter with Polasek getting shut out.
Adolph A. Weinman was born in Germany and came to the US at the age of 10 in 1880. He was a student of well known sculptor Augustus Saint-Gaudens. Saint-Gaudens is also credited with some truly outstanding coin designs. By 1915 when the design process began, Weinman was widely celebrated as one of the nation’s best sculptors.
The design of the Mercury dime is that of a “Winged Liberty” and is based on a bust that Weinman did in 1913 of Elsie Kachel Stevens, wife of well-known poet Wallace Stevens, who happened to be tenants of a New York City apartment building owned by Weinman. The winged cap was to symbolize freedom of thought. The reverse of the coin depicts the fasces, an ancient symbol of authority, with a battle-ax at the top to represent preparedness and an olive branch beside it to signify love and peace and authority.
Production and release of the new dimes was delayed until later in the year of 1916 as the dies were not quite ready. The Philadelphia and San Francisco mint produced Barber dimes much of 1916 to meet demand while Denver ceased producing Barber dimes in 1914. Once the dies were complete, production began with both Philadelphia and San Francisco cranking out millions of dimes. Denver though produced a mere 264,000 making the 1916-D an instant rarity.
Shortly after the dime began circulating, many people began calling it a “Mercury dime” due to the wings on the cap. Mercury is the Roman god of trade, property and wealth as well as messenger to the other gods. The hat, called a Petasus, is similar to that worn my messengers during the time when Mercury was worshipped. Mercury gained his speed from his wings. Although not the original and intended name for the new time, the term Mercury stuck and that is what it is known as today.
The Mercury dime served Americans through two world wars ending its run in 1945. With the death of Franklin Delano Roosevelt in 1945, there was a strong movement to honor the president and in 1946 the Roosevelt dime began production and is still used today.
Collectibility
General
The Mercury dime is a wonderful coin for both experienced and beginning collectors and is the most popular collected series in its denomination. A complete set including all keys can be had for under $1500.00 but the keys will be in very bad condition. A nicer set with all coins graded at least G4 including keys can cost upwards of $2000.00 or more. If you want to establish a year collection, you can avoid the big cost of the 1916-D but you still will need to shell out $50 or more for a 1921 dated dime. Both mints, P or D (San Francisco did not produce any) are considered keys. All other dates should be easily obtained. Many people collect what is called a short set consisting of all mints and years from 1934 to 1945 or 1941 to 1945. A short set of BU specimens from 1941 is 1945 is quite attractive.
Taking the three keys (discussed in a bit) out of the equation, all dates and mints can be had for under $10.00 in G4 condition with the majority of them under $3.00. Most coins after 1940 can be had for under $1.00 in pretty decent grades. As with many coins of the times, Philadelphia was the main producer of coins while Denver and San Francisco were generally much lower than Philadelphia. For the entire series, Philadelphia produced 65.9% of all dimes, Denver produced 17.8% of all dimes while San Francisco produced 16.3%, clearly making mint marked dimes a little tougher to get.
Production totals exceed 50 million on 6 times prior to 1940 but never going over 67 million (1939). This totals far exceeded production of the Barber dime but pail in comparison to the later years of the Mercury dime. In 1941 production totals skyrocketed with Philadelphia producing 175 million dimes. For the last four years of production, totals never fell below 159 million. A total of 2.6 billion dimes were produced with over half, 56% being produced during the last 5 years with the last four coinciding with WWII. An amazing statistic considering the Mercury dime was in production for 30 years. Of course many of those years were during the depression where coin production was low for all denominations.
When grading Mercury dimes, the grading criteria changes somewhat in Mint State coins. Coins what are fully struck have what is called Full Split Bands (FSB). This is in reference to the fasces where there are clear and fully defined horizontal bands with separation between them. Mint State coins with this definition will command premiums over their counterparts without this designation.
Key/Semi Key Dates
Clearly, from a non-variety perspective, the 1916-D is the toughest and most expensive coin to obtain. Although not the rarest, is perhaps the most famous dime in U.S history. Typically, first year issues are heavily hoarded and collected by the public which typically preserves many coins. Not so with the 1916-d as its rarity initially went unnoticed. With millions of coins coming from Philadelphia and San Francisco, the public had not noticed that very few had the Denver mint mark. This is easily determined by the fact that so many 1916-D dimes are available in such low grades as so many of them circulated for more than 30 years. Another clear example is the stunning amount of 1916-D dimes discovered in the “New York Subway Hoard”. The collectors of this hoard did not begin collecting until the 1940’s. More than 25 years after the release of the 1916-D yet 251 examples of this special coin were in the hoard.
Coins in the lowest grade of FA2 or G3 will cost upwards of $500.00 and the prices only go up from there. A VG8 is typically priced at $1300.00. While this coin is indeed pricey, it is readily available from many dealers.
The second key of the series is the 1921-D followed closely by the 1921-P. Both of these coins had mintages of just over 1 million. Both of these coins will cost over $50 for a G/VG grade.
From here, the cost of individual coins drops dramatically as the next semi-keys are 1926-S and 1931-D. Both of these can be had for under $10.00 in low grades.
A note about low grades: While you can obtain these rarities in low grades, eye appeal is NOT their strong point. Coins in AG-G condition typically show the date/partial date and mint. It is generally tough to make out details in the coins as they are well worn. I quote prices in G4 as to give you an idea of what minimum prices are for keys and semi-keys. Prime examples in the coins noted above can run into the 10’s of thousands of dollars.
While the 1945-P coin is readily available in all grades, FSB specimens are extremely rare. Many common dates of the 1940’s have dozens of coins graded in the MS-67 range while the 1945-P currently has only 3 certified PCGS coins.
Errors
Perhaps the best know error in the Mercury series is the 1942/1 overdate. These were produced at both Denver and Philadelphia with the Philadelphia variety having popularity near the 1916-D. In the lowest grades these coins will cost over $500.00 and will be hard to distinguish the error. It would be suggested to purchase these through a well known dealer and/or buying only certified coins of this error.
The other well known variety occurred in 1945 and that was a change in the size of the mint mark on San Francisco coins. Called “Micro S”, many 1945 dated coins have a smaller “S” mint mark and sell for a slight premium over regular “S” coins.
Proofs
Proof Mercury dimes are quite beautiful. They were only produced for seven years, from 1936 to 1942. A complete set in PR-65 condition would cost around $5000.00
Vital Statistics Summary
Key Coin Info
Designed by: Adolph A. Weinman
Issue dates: 1916-1945
Composition: 0.900 part silver, 0.100 part copper
Diameter: 17.9 mm
Weight: 38.58 grains
Edge: Reeded
Business strike mintage: 2,677,153,880
Proof mintage: 78,648
Proof mintage: 17,353
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